Friday, September 28, 2007

Graveyards Rising From the Depths

Graveyards rising from the lake. Looting in broad daylight.

The year was 1977. Having been plagued by drought for seven years, the river arms that fed Shasta Lake dried up. Manzanita trees withered and died. The lake fell to its lowest level ever and, in the process, a lot of history got revealed.

An old cemetery emerged near where the once thriving town of Kennet used to be. Kennet itself is now so deep under the lake that it never gets exposed.

Lola M. Schwartz - Librarian for the Shasta Historical Society - and her husband, Jim were boating on Lake Shasta that summer and saw this amazing sight.

“It was very exciting”, she remembers. There was a black wrought-iron fence all around that cemetery. It looked brand new – the water had preserved it. And you could tell where the graves were. Those that had been moved were sunken and those that (remained) were smooth.”

Throughout that summer, Lola and Jim visited the cemetery often. In a later visit, Schwartz found the fence was missing – someone had stolen it!

Can you imagine it? Was it late afternoon or early evening? A boat pulls up. Perhaps several men get out. With a few tools, a lot of sweat and struggle, they work to pull the black metal from its long embedded sanctuary. Did they think about the people buried there as they toiled to steal the boundary marking their final resting place? Or was this simply easy pickings – an opportunity to get cheap fencing? We’ll never know – no one saw them with their plunder.

Many other things showed up that year. More than a hundred prehistoric Indian sites were revealed across the dried-up lakebed. Many of these had been along the original rivers and creeks. According to a retired archeologist of the Forest Service, some of these sites dated back more than 500 years!

A lot of artifacts were found by the Forest Service. Milling stones, net weights, things that go back as far as 4,000 years. These were left there for their “protection”. However looting became rampant and many disappeared. Because of this, the Forest Service later removed the artifacts, establishing collections at both Shasta College and at the Visitor’s Center at Shasta Lake. Many of these can still be seen.

Sad to say, so much of our local history has disappeared. Though pictures remain, we forget the rich tapestry of lives and events that happened within the past hundred years. So many stories yet to tell.

Mary Brown & Red Bluff Part 3

Continued from Part 2

Mary Brown, widow of infamous abolitionist John Brown, stood in the midst of a mystery history almost forgot.

This story begins before the Browns arrival in Red Bluff, although they were unquestionably linked with the unfolding circumstances.

When a state entered the Union, as California did in 1850, surveys were made to determine its official borders. In the haste to recognize California, this wasn’t done, creating many legal problems.

“Red Bluffs”, as it was originally known, sat at the farthest accessible point north on the Sacramento River. That made it ideal for steamboat travel, which brought new settlers and abundant commerce.

One of these early settlers was J. Granville Doll. He was to be a critical figure in solving the riddle of Mrs. Brown’s home and legal problems that still occur with real estate borders in Red Bluff today.

Mr. Doll wanted to build a land empire. After settling in the area, he purchased federal land grants for property in and around the Red Bluff area. Forming a land corporation with 2 other businessmen, the company continued purchasing land grants in northern California. They then had the land surrounding Red Bluff officially surveyed, intending to lay out various developments, then sell these for huge profits.

There was a problem – people had already settled on some of the land and they didn’t want to move! This didn’t stop the land corporation. They began filing lawsuits to clear the “squatters”.

Winning many of the lawsuits, the corporation then threw occupants off “their” land. The citizens of Red Bluffs fought back, incorporating the town and electing town officials. They figured that would stop the would-be land barons.

Now what do these real estate squabbles have to do with Mrs. Brown? Wait for Part IV, the conclusion of this story.

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Mary Brown & Red Bluff Part 2

Continued from Part 1


After her husband, John Brown, was hanged for treason in 1859, Mary Brown and her family lived in poverty. In 1860, however, the Browns received financial help - from abolitionist societies, the Republic of Haiti, and royalties from a book about John Brown. Their fortunes had definitely improved!

In 1863, one of Mary’s daughters returned from a trip west with stories of California. Tired of harsh winters, Mrs. Brown and some family members packed up and headed west. After a stop for winter, they moved on in 1864.

Joining various wagon trains making their way across country, they often faced persecution when fellow travelers discovered their relationship to John Brown. Most of their prized sheep were poisoned because of this. Though the Civil War was winding down, emotions still ran high about slavery and abolitionists.

Danger came from many sources. Indian attacks were frequent. At one point, rebel deserters joined their wagon train. Learning about the Browns, they threatened to kill her son, Salmon Brown, and possibly the rest of the family. Fearing for their lives, the Browns escaped late at night, along with a few sympathetic families. Traveling as quickly as they dared, their wagons stayed only three hours ahead of their attackers! Finally, they eluded them.

After six grueling, arduous months, the Browns reached California. They entered the town of Red Bluff on September 30, 1864. Destitute, ragged and weary, they must have wondered what kind of reception they’d find.

Expecting the worst, they instead received a warm welcome. News of their travels had preceded them. An article in a local newspaper mentioned the shameful treatment the family had continually endured. The author urged the town’s citizens to welcome the Browns with kindness, putting aside any resentment or rancor because of their infamous relative.

The story of Mary Brown and the town of Red Bluff continues, with a multi-county fund-raising campaign, a notorious land baron with dreams of building an empire, and a lawsuit that threatened to abolish the town of Red Bluff! It’s a tale of struggle, triumph and mystery. So stay tuned for the next installment – you won’t be disappointed!

Mary Brown and Red Bluff Part 1

The story of a one-story house near downtown Red Bluff begins back East, in the 1800’s. There’s nothing remarkable about the house. Yet this modest building was built for and at one time was home to the family of John Brown of Harper’s Ferry fame.

There are riddles, twists and turns to this story.

John Brown believed slavery was wrong, He felt slaves would inevitably rise up and revolt against their masters. The strong sentiment on both sides of this issue showed up here in the northstate. But that’s another story.

Settling in northern New York, Brown workied first as a teacher to free and runaway Negroes, then as a farmer. He married twice - his second wife, Mary Day Brown, being the focus of these stories.

Married at seventeen, with little schooling, Mary Brown often found herself raising her growing family alone. Her husband and oldest boys were gone for long periods to the then Kansas territory.

During the 1850’s, the United States was trying to stave off civil war. When territories were considered for statehood, generally two states were created – one as a slave state and one free. Citizens voted to decide which way they would go. When Kansas was considered for statehood, pro-and anti-slavery people descended on the divided territory. Guerilla fighting between the factions was rampant, with John Brown and his sons in the thick of some of the most vicious battles.

In 1859, with Kansas leaning towards becoming free, Brown returned home. The family, including 13 children, was destitute. Instead of finding ways to help, Brown turned his attention to creating a slaves’ rebellion. That’s where Harper’s Ferry comes in.

Brown decided to raid the heavily-guarded U.S. Army arsenal in Harper’s Ferry, Virginia. Historians agree it would have been impossible to succeed. Brown’s family, however, has always maintained he knew this and instead intended for this to be a catalyst – the “match” to light up a successful slaves rebellion.

History shows Brown lost. Captured at Harper’s Ferry, by none other than Colonel Robert E. Lee, Brown was tried, convicted of treason and conspiracy, and sentenced to hang.

So what does all this have to do with the northstate? Patience. Read on!

Monday, September 17, 2007

Women Brave the West Part 2

Continued from Part 1

In 1908, Mary Endicott Arnold and Mabel Reed - cousins of General John Bidwell of Chico and friends since childhood - traveled across the country. Their adventure led them to sail on a small boat, landing in the coastal town of Eureka.

Understand how extraordinary this was - two young women traveling alone at the turn of the 20th century. Women didn’t have many rights then and rarely traveled. Single, with no chaperones, no experience, and clothes that didn’t fit where they were going, all they had were an eager curiosity and a determination to explore.

No one met their boat. Entering a nearby saloon, they learned a mail carrier would be back soon. Later, discovering what the women wanted, the mail carrier first said he wouldn’t take them. After much pleading, however, he agreed, telling them to severely limit their baggage, handing them four flour sacks to use!

Early the next day, they set out by wagon towards the mountains. They stopped for lunch at a small ranch, a regular stop for travelers. Afterwards, Mary and Mabel learned they'd have to ride the rest of the way. Both had barely ever ridden ponies, much less spirited western horses! Determined to go on and hiding their fears, they bravely mounted their horses, silently praying they wouldn’t fall off.

The mail carrier wasn’t happy. After being silent for hours, he suddenly announced he was in a hurry, that they were slowing him down. Saying he was going to get his dinner and that the horses would find their own way, he rode off!

Up til then, they'd been going up and down narrow treacherous mountain trails. Darkness had settled in. Riding for hours in an endless driving rain - drenching the women to the skin - the wiind whipped through the trees on all sides, mercilessly slashing their faces and arms. Terrified and with little choice, the women continued on.

After two frightening hours, they made it to Hoopa, an Indian reservation near Willow Creek. Soaked and shivering, the young women found the mail carrier inside having dinner in the Indian Agent’s warm, well-lit home. They then learned that the flour sacks filled with their clothes had been left behind! The only clothes they had now were the ones they on.

This was just one of many adventures Mary and Mabel had – both in the West and back East. Who would have thought these two inexperienced young women would succeed in their hazardous journey? Perhaps they were more than the sum of their parts, so to speak. Perhaps it’s a lesson for all of us – to see that the pioneer spirit lies deep within all of us, waiting to be ignited by an idea that fires our imagination and inspires us to act.

Women Brave The West Part 1

By the early 1900’s, the “Wild West” had been written and talked about for decades. Cheap land and wide-open spaces drew thousands of men looking for adventure. For women, however, options were limited.

Two women from New Jersey decided to change that. Mary Endicot Arnold and Mabel Reed - friends since childhood - were cousins of Anne Bidwell, wife of famed General John Bidwell who settled and prospered in the area we know as Chico.

In 1908 - deciding the East was too tame - Mary and Mabel made the hazardous journey across country to visit their cousins. While there, they noticed General Bidwell employed Indians around his property. They were intrigued. Feeling the local Indians were too submissive, the young women longed to see Indians that were “more real”.

While attending a glamorous party at Bidwell mansion, amid the fine crystal, champagne and elegant ballgowns, they met a Special Indian Agent. Longing for adventure, they proposed a radical idea to him. Let them travel further west into the mountains to find some “real Indians!” Skeptical, he finally agreed to help the insistent travelers. Appointing them “Field Matrons in the United States Indian Service, Department of Interior”, they were to be paid $30 a month plus travel expenses (a very generous sum in those days, especially for women).

In a whirlwind, the excited women packed countless trunks and bags for their trip. Shortly, after traveling by coach to San Francisco, they boarded a small ship, it’s only passengers.

With constant rain dogging the entire trip, they finally arrived in Eureka.

What would they find there? Check out Part 2 for more of this adventure.